Presents: Bell 230 UT online support build-up. Page 3
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Here you can see the landing gear bolts also
hold the mechs into place , the HUGE
cooling head of motor is visible as well as
the cooing duct . Heim's have the best
cooling available today. Dry fitted
upper tabs are screwed in , to be glued after fitting
mounts and blocks as shown below...
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Ready for final gluing. It is
not possible to run hard boom inside and have stabs connected
at the same time...problem... no , just add
a wood ring inside about midway of fins and the
they are just as stiff and strong as ever!!!
I slot the boom to accept stabs, epoxy follows after
I am satisfied with fit .
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The superb quality of the GRP
stabs . The fit needs to be using the slot so you can just
tack it with a drop of CA glue . Here is where
you can chose to add detail... notice the
gap at the rear of stab? It's actually larger
than it appears as not to get loaded with paint
or clear. I sanded the flange of the stab
forward of the tab to create the proper angle to it
so when you look down on the top of the stabs
they line up in a straight line across the
boom. Since the boom is tapered, butt joining
them makes them swept back which I don't
care for. This gap adds to movable appearance.
If you don't desire this gap which ends
at rear point of tab on stab, you can sand
the angle into rear part of fin to make it a straight
butt joint, with the leading edges lining
up. Use a ruler to check it across the boom, line
up the edges much like using a fly bar gauge.
It's picky I know, but I like it right.
once tacked checking that they are level and
incidence is the same (using level meter) on
both fins, then you use the microballon and
epoxy
mix to glue it all up, wait a while for glue
to start setting up before use otherwise it
will just run out of the seam and drive you crazy
trying to keep up with it... usually about
20 min- 30 min sitting in the pot will do it. Caution:
Microballon filler kicks off the epoxy quicker...
so watch it while you wait.
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Here you can see the inner ring made from
scrap ply from sheet. No , that's not discoloration
on the wood, it's the reflection ! It is that
glossy and smooth, a screwdriver and opening
can be seen in the reflection. Notice the
microballon filler in the seam with floor.I use my
finger to smooth it out . Clean up with rubbing
alky. The first coat of any of the wood needs
to have about a half ounce of acetone added
to the mix, this makes the epoxy like water. It
can then seep deep into the cellular structure
of the ply itself and harden there since
it is a chemical reaction that hardens the
glue. I then sand the coated wood with 220, tack it
all off and re-coat using a fresh batch
of pure epoxy , work quickly and coat evenly, the brush
marks will flow out and produce these results.
Fuel proof past 40 % nitro ( I used to build
hydros). TRY not to touch it once coated,
just get it done and leave it alone, you will be
amazed when you return. Also, this can be
done inside or outside the body, outside you
will have to sand the lower edges about 1/4-3/8
inches to allow glue to tooth into wood.
Inside is easier , do the wood seams
first, then come back and do the 1st and 2 nd coats.
Looks neater too since you don't have to glue
the wood in, it's already in place.
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Inner side facing the wing was pre coated
for fuel proofing, then installed with tacked
CA points, then epoxied in. Mechs are fitted
at "DRY STAGE" . There upper mech supports
are done off the model, then screws hold them
while glue sets upon installation.
If it aint signed " sandy s." I didn't
build it ! I like to put notes into some of my models...
wayyy back into the tail , they read" If you
can read this, BOY did you ever screw up! "
A planker I fly with puts a garbage
bag into his planes so when he drills into terra-firma
the bag is right there for clean up! Too funny!
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