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Ok BEFORE we apply any voltages to the motor,
we must reset the timing. Mark the 0 point down the can so it can l
line up with red screw, this is zero degrees. You will see your red mark
on -1 or so on the scale. This is the normal
setting. Now we mark one of the many can screws so we can go back to it(factory
setting) later atfter break-in.
We then losen all the can screws and rotate the housing to give us -3
degrees with the zero-line lined up the red screw.
Tighten and apply 6 volts for a few hours to break in the brushes. the
reason we "Retard" the timing for break-iin
is to reduce the sparks on the commutator. When broken-in, reset timing
back to factory mark (-1 degree).
Pod and boom is easily attainable, and the pack
face rearward for easy replacment
without canopy removal. Our motor has a great cooling system so down time
is reduced
significantly.
.......
The 2 mm wire secures the packs from
moving out of the holders. A simple series circuit is used. Packs are
charged together only! We use the ULTRA DUO PLUS 30 charger.
......
I turned the packs around and made up these quick
release straps from alu bar and o-rings. If you cut off the battery
connectors you can just solder the gold palted terminals without having
to add any wire! TEST/set-up flight coming
soon and then on the fuse!
......
Fitting the mechs to the body is a 5 minute procedure. We add the
the dash, which covers the front
retract servo and the mechs slide right in attaching with 6 bolts. This
model can be seen being built here
in full detail.
.....
The front windows remove as a unit for complete
access to batteries and mechs. I put the radio switch down
below here. The arming switch for the speed controller will go up top to
keep them seperate and so I can keep
a hold of the heli while arming (safer this way).
The clip below will give you a good idea of the
sound this heli makes.
First hover movie clip here!