Turbine NH-90
  On-line support Build-up / Page 13

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OPTIONAL STEP... Two piece cowl.
...
    Using the straight edges on the door sills for a rest for my angle square, I draw a verticle line along the side on the cowl, follow it over the top
keep the top line even with the cutout vent edge, then to the top. Use masking tape for this, then follow by cutting with HOT KNIFE, sand the
edges slightly. I then add wood tabs about 45, 35 and 15 mm long and all about 20mm wide , 3MM ply.Ca tabs in places where its totally flat.
At this point you fit the front and rear to the body using screws provided making sure its all tight and good fitting. After you are sure its all lined
up again, drill 2 mm holes and use small wood screws to secure the two halves as you go. You can then counter sink the backside of the tabs
after taking it apart again, and add 2mm nuts embedded with JB weld. Grease 2 mm bolts with silcone oil, or something similar, install them
and let dry.
..........
Here is what you get, a countersunk 2mm nut, then I glass over it with some 3/4 oz cloth and thin CA  to ensure if one would come loose
it would not fall into the model.
...
 I still have the steps to do, but due to breaks in the weather, I had to paint now.I can touch up later with a brush as I still have to paint the rear
servo tray for the tail rotor. I use "TESLA" tape to get sharp lines on the inside. I also used BVM CERAMIC paint in the center of rails
and some other areas close to heat. I let the BVM paint dry for few days, then finished over it with automotive two part urethane.
The floor areas are now sealed from fuel leaks or spills and is much cleaner and easier to do this way.

...
 Semi-gloss was used.                                                                                Here you see the final glue joints... nice and tight and neat.
Step plates and windows are next followed by mech install and wiring.
 

For Flush mount windshield: Optional step.

...
Y You can chose two ways to install the front glass. Easiest would be to just fix it once fitted with some screws as suggested. The other way is to
evenly space spacers made up from scrap plastic and gooped in place. GOOP is avialable at most hardware stores. I do not suggest silcone rubber.
The spacers some places two time thick will leave spaces under the glass where they are not located... this is good as I install dummy screws by
cutting the heads down to 2mm and installing them.This way I only have to have to put about 1/4 of the screws all the way through (where the spacers
are) the rest just sit there short, and doing nothing... the size is #00 stainless from micro-fastener.
       I CA the dummy screw heads only after every screw is fitted and then the glass removed so it wont fog from the CA glue.
 

...
   Here is the final look, flush mount.   The dummy screws will get sanded, primed and thus reduced when the finsish is applied.

...\
  Take your time here, leave only about 3 mm flange towards the front bulkhead on this piece of glass. The side glass just pops in from behind.
 


I only use four tiny drops of goop to hide the glass so can take them off
easily later.
 
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