a
AS-350B"A-Star" On-line support build-up. Page 12.![]()
Click image for kit info.Scale step plates/extra details: How to
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Start with bending the desired shape out of solid brass wire 3/32" , take your time as two are needed and they
should match. Then get a piece of wood to serve as a soldering jig. I drilled the wood at the right angle needed
to predetermine the angle of the step in relation to the body surface. Small washers are used to make mounting
pads and aligator clips hold the step at the correct angle. Flux the parts so the solder will stick and use a 40 watt
soldering gun to keep the heat controllable. Shim wood is used to space the plate in the right spot. It also helps
to sand the parts with 400 paper for better stick when soldering. Later the backside/inside of body will get some
epoxy to hold the lugs of the step to the body. BVM epoxy is best for this.
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Here they are test fit and looking pretty good. When all paint work is done these will be installed. they are painted
off the model and will get some 220 grit paper contact glued to them for the final effect. Now to finish the lower
steps on the skid tips.
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I decided to make up some wire cutters using ABS scrap sheet this time.I made a tin template for scribing onto
the plastic and made two outers, one inner (slightly larger for blade) and two doubler plates and one mounting flange.
With a little time, the results come out quite nicely using thin CA to bond the ABS sheets together. One more
will be made for the belly area and rivets will get added after primer but before paint.
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Here are the finished wire cutters and cockpit ready for final install after paint.
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Skid step plates completed (scale for this version) and made from 3/32" plywood. CA glued into place and backed
up with BVM epoxy , then primered with special ecthing primer (SEM brand) for alu which is available from better
auto-body supply houses in a spray can. Here I also added the E.G.T. tubes for the final touch to the exhaust.
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Ok, here it is almost ready for paint! I sanded the entire fuselage with red-scotch brite pads (approx 250 grit),
then primered with high quality primer that is urethane compatible.The inside wood and visable fuse area is painted
with a brush for ease using urethane two part system for automotive use. This procedure fuel proofs the wood and
surrounding glass and also lends to a more pleasing look to cockpit area. The fuse will now be wet sanded with
600 grit paper in final prep for painting . I like to tape off the windows from the inside to avoid a mess during this
stage, then it will get taped again with clean tape for final painting stages. We are using three part urethane system
for color work. Windows go in last after paint along with other final details.
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